Like anyone I have weaknesses. High quality jasmine green tea. Colin Farrell. Nat Sherman cigarettes (even though they’re really, really bad for me). And apparently, cult status, high-end French skincare.
I mean, it all started innocently enough with that classic P50 that I just had to try because my skin loves acid products. But then they kept sending me samples with every purchase, and that’s how they rope you in isn’t it? Because I wouldn’t have given Creme Dermopurifiante the time of day if I saw the $90 price tag before trying it.
And I really did try to resist the appeal of this brand for a long time, but then I hit 35 and I decided that using more expensive products – as long as they’re well formulated and effective – are just par for the course if I want to keep from looking like I’m 35.
Like most people I started out with Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion (CosDNA). At the time I was already using Silk Naturals 8% AHA Toner – which is great, btw -, so I didn’t expect any dramatic changes after using P50, but within a few days the texture of my skin changed completely. After two days my skin was baby soft. All the tiny, invisible bumps on my cheeks that I never paid any attention to were just gone. Similarly, the clogged pores on my forehead, which I do notice, disappeared completely.
Again, I think the reason this is so impressive is because I use a lot of actives on a daily basis (tretinoin, azelaic acid, and clindamycin from Curology, and an acid toner at least once a day) and my skin should have been very refined from all of that already. Apparently, it wasn’t.
The next product I tried was Creme Dermopurifiante (CosDNA) since a sample was included with my P50 order. Like the P50 this is something I didn’t expect to have much of an impact on my skin. I mean you can say “oh, it great for calming breakouts” or “yeah, it works wonders on soothing irritation”, and both of those statements are true, but it’s also really reductive. The combination of yeast, niacinamide, and ascorbic acid are great for evening skin tone; the lactic acid, salicylic acid, and vinegar are great hydroxy acids for refining pores and diminishing breakouts; and ingredients like oleanolic acid and extracts like mimosa, centella, arnica, thyme, and yarrow are incredibly soothing.
The only part where this creme might fall down for some people is the in the moisturizers it uses which is a combination of lanolin, fatty alcohols, glycerin, and glycols. Personally, my skin loves them, but if your skin reacts to any of those this probably should probably be a hard pass because they’re right at the top of the ingredients list.
If that’s not a problem though, this product is worth every cent of it’s $90 price tag. My skin positively glows when I use it, and like with the P50 it’s kind of amazing it has such a visible effect because I use a lot of brightening products on a daily basis.
At the same time I was trying both P50 and Creme Dermopurifiante, I also tried a sample of the Bio Magic Mask (link). I only had samples enough to try it twice, so maybe take this with a grain of salt, but it did nothing for my skin. According to the product blurb it’s supposed to “[leave] the skin glowing, soft and purified and is recommended for devitalized and/or less toned skin.” I literally saw no change in my skin either time I used it.
With my most recent order I got a sample of Masque VIP O2 (CosDNA), which I really wanted to like, but unfortunately it clogged my pores something fierce. I think this is due to the mink oil in it, which is very comedogenic. If that’s not a problem for you I did find it very hydrating, even for my dry skin.
The last product I’ve tried from them is Creme VIP O2 (ingredients). I’m kind of on the fence about this one. It does leave my skin with a little bit of glow, but it’s also a lightly pearlized cream, so… yeah. I don’t dislike this cream, really, I just like Creme Dermopurifiante much, much more. It’s more moisturizing, more brightening, more refining – just so much more than the Creme VIP 02.
So obviously it’s been a hit-or-miss experience for me. And while the misses are just kind of “meh”, the hits are absolutely amazing. So even though it hurts my soul to spend $65 on toner and $90 on moisturizer I’ll still totally do it because it’s waaay worth it.
Where to buy: